Monday, March 18, 2013

Courses - AMM Option: AMM 410/A - Apparel Production Development I

There are a few different classes that I have very much enjoyed during my time at Cal Poly. Under the “courses” pages, I will talk about 4 of these, including an AMM Core course, an AMM Option course, a Support Course, and a General Education course.
I do warn in advance these are a bit long.

AMM Core
AMM Option (this entry)
Support Course
General Education

AMM Option:
AMM 410/A - Apparel Production Development I
Beginning of capstone experience for senior production students. Development of patterns, prototypes, and samples. Use of CAD technology in development of pattern blocks and first patterns. Application of pattern theory for fit and pattern verification. Application of apparel industry pattern marking and assembly. Evaluation of standard and custom fit.

     In this class, we learned how to use TUKA Tech and create our own patterns so we could make a skirt and blouse for our measurements. It was interesting to learn how patternmaking works, and all the small details that go into it in order to make a garment fit correctly.
     We started with pattern blocks, and used different techniques that our professor taught us in order to modify the block to our liking. We added elements such as pleats, gathering, darts, and pintucks.


     In completing this class, I learned everything that goes into patternmaking, and have a better understanding of why pattern makers make so much money. It’s difficult, but when you’re able to create beautiful pieces, it makes you feel very proud, and able to say “I made this blouse myself,” which takes people aback, and they find it to be remarkable. I’m happy I had the opportunity to take this class, because it’s given me a new perspective on clothing, and how much goes in to making just one garment. Now when I go out, I see more of the small details on garments, and have a better understanding of why some pieces cost more than others.

     There were definitely challenges in this class. The first being that none of us knew how to use the TUKA program, and many of us - including me - never having made patterns before. The second was trying to make the patterns to our measurements, and making sure that the pieces would transfer from paper to a 3D garment. It felt great overcoming these challenges, and being able to create garments that I’m able to wear.

     This class connects with other classes I've taken during my time in AMM. In a previous class, we had to deconstruct a men’s shirt and analyze the seams and pieces that made up the garment. It is also the prerequisite for AMM 414, Apparel Product Development 2, where we, as a class, are creating an entire line, including designs, patterns, and colors.

Project 1: Skirt  
     Our first project was a skirt for ourselves. We decided what kind of skirt we wanted, and I chose gathered since it suited my style. We went to the fashion district in downtown Los Angeles to choose our fabric, with our professor’s guidance. Our only restriction was that it had to be a woven.

I found this photo and knew this was what I wanted to make:

I found a similar fabric, and wanted to make a knee-length gathered skirt:

We created a flat in Illustrator to show what we were aiming to make.

     From here, I started with a pattern block on TUKA, and modified it to accommodate the gathers, and made a waistband that would fit me. There would be an invisible zipper on the left side.
     We made a sample garment out of muslin to assure it would fit us correctly before we made it out of our final fabric. We had a fit session with our professor, and adjusted our pattern accordingly.

     After correcting my pattern, I was ready to create my skirt out of the final fabric. I cut out the pattern pieces, sewed it all together, and installed the zipper. I was really proud of how this skirt came out, and it fits me well.

This was the final result:

Project 2: Blouse  
     Our second project was a blouse for ourselves. We were able to add different elements to it, and on mine I added a Peter Pan collar, neck bow, gathered sleeves, and pintucks.

While browsing for ideas of what I wanted to make, I came across this picture:

I based my illustrator flat on this photo:

     Creating the blouse was a lot harder than the skirt, but with a lot of work and corrections, it turned out really well. I first created a sample out of a similar chiffon fabric. I was happy it fit me, and I learned how to add the collar with a classmate’s help. With a few small corrections to the pattern, I was ready to make the final blouse. I used an ivory crinkle chiffon fabric.

The final product:

     It fits me well, but there are a few minor changes I would make, such as the ease under the arms. This blouse took an entire day to sew, and because it was for me, I was happy to take the time to sew everything well so it would be a correctly finished piece.

We also presented both of our pieces to VF Corporation, and made presentation boards:

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